Monday, March 9, 2009

Insider




Kaş has also long been a major halting point on "Blue Cruise" itineraries, and yacht and gület culture is as important here as at Kalkan – with day-trips available for the less well-heeled. For private yachts, a new marina is being built at Bucak Limanı (formerly Vathy), the long fjord west of town, wedged between Highway 400 and the Çukurbağ peninsula, which extends 5km southwest of Kaş.

The modern town is built atop the site of ancient Antiphellos, whose remaining ruins still speckle the streets, as well as covering the base of the peninsula to the west.

The Town

Ancient Antiphellos was the harbour of ancient Phellos, way inland near the modern village of Çukurbağ and one of the few Lycian cities to bear a Greek name (phellos means "cork oak"). Excavations at Kaş have unearthed a settlement dating back to at least the fourth century BC, although Antiphellos only gained importance in Hellenistic times, when an increase in seagoing commerce meant it thrived while Phellos withered. By the Roman era, it was the most important city in the region, famed particularly for its sponges, which Pliny mentioned as being exceptionally soft.

The remains of the ancient city are few and scattered, but what's on show is quite impressive. Out of town, 500m along Necip Bey Caddesi from the harbour mosque, sits a small, almost complete Hellenistic theatre with 26 rows of seats, well used by those watching the sunset.

Nightlife

A varied, crowded, sometimes high-decibel nightlife – easily the best on the Turquoise Coast – is what makes Kaş for many visitors.
Harry's Bar Çukurbağlı Cad 13. Gets going early in the evening, offering an Edward-Hopperish view from outside into the minimalist bar, with ceiling fans and neon logo, as well as free wi-fi access for the price of drink or two.

Hideway Cumhuriyet Cad 16/A officially, actually in a lane off the old market square. Easily the coolest garden bar/café in town (open only May– Nov); vintage rock and blues soundtrack, divan and table seating, romantic lighting and ever-popular (if somewhat pricey) Sunday breakfast.

Hi-Jazz Zümrüt Sok 3. The designated local jazz venue, though the playlist gets less vintage and more daring towards the small hours.

Mavi/Blue Cumhuriyet Medanı. The oldest bar-café in town: 25 years ago it was a coffeehouse where retired fishermen played backgammon, now it's musical, young and trendy from mid-afternoon until morning.

Red Point Club Süleyman Topçu Sokağı. Kaş's premier after-hours dance club in an old barn, packed solid after midnight despite a fairly spacious dance-floor for the sake of DJ-spun rock and soul. Tables out in the lane during summer.
Sun Café Hükumet Caddesi. Musical meyhane, where the emphasis on food has been eclipsed by live music gigs, which dominate proceedings after 11pm.

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